By Rahul Thapa
The street food truck culture dates back to the late 17th century when living conditions were cramped and people had little resources, thanks to the glaring class divide in the West. Vendors and cooks used to sell food from small carts; with time, these began to flourish in different parts of the world.
This culture has entered India as well. Different cuisines are found in these food trucks, making them a hit with foodies. Despite being relatively new in the scene, street food enthusiasts have taken note of colourful food trucks and indulging their taste buds.
It is gaining immense popularity not only in big cities like New Delhi, Mumbai, and Pune but also in small towns like Shillong, where people are intrigued by food trucks and opt for buying food from there. All considerations of hygiene are thrown out of the door!
In 2015, the food truck named, The Chicken Wagon, pioneered this culture. Until then, there were no such food trucks in Shillong. Khraw Bor Kharpuri, the owner, pursued hotel management from Durgapur (West Bengal) and went on to work in New Delhi for five years at The Hyatt Residency and The Claridges.
This experience became useful when he joined Zizira, a unit of Chillibreeze. He got to know about different products, used as ingredients and seasonings. Soon, Chillibreeze came up with a new start-up, the idea of opening a food truck in Shillong. The Chicken Wagon was, thus, born.
Initially, it was the property of Ralph Budelman, CEO of Chillibreeze. Kharpuri was only given the chance to lead the startup. However, within a few years, the food truck gained immense popularity among the people, all under the latter’s guidance and leadership.
One of the main reasons was its unique taste. What foodies also noticed was the attention given to hygiene. Even the famous restaurants and hotels in the town often failed to maintain cleanliness – this eventually grabbed every customer’s attention.
“The year 2019 proved to be a major turning point in my life because it was then that The Chicken Wagon was officially sold to me. Since then, the business has grown well. Currently, there are three outlets at Golflinks, Laitumkhrah and FCI, a small eatery,” Kharpuri said.
The success of Shillong’s first food truck inspired aspiring entrepreneurs. Soon, different food trucks were found, operating at strategic locations in the city.
Another popular food truck is The Crust, located at Golflinks. It is the first pizza truck in Shillong. The owner Emisouwi (well known as Bah Emi) already owns a Pizza Shop named Pizza Barn, located at Mawroh-Mawtawar Road, on the way to NEHU.
His food truck was conceptualised during the pandemic when he considered extending his business. He was selected ‘Top 50 Entrepreneurs’ from Meghalaya. Under the guidance and support of the state government, he launched The Crust on March 31, 2022.
“We believe that our pizza crust is special compared to others – it’s very thin and handmade, the reason we named the food truck, The Crust. We chose black as the colour of our food truck because it gives a very classy look,”
Emisouwi said.
On witnessing the success of the two food trucks in Shillong, many small chefs, bakers and entrepreneurs saw an opportunity. It promised growth with little investment as it doesn’t require paying rent for a building.
Two other promising food trucks are B.J. Bakery Food Truck (Lower Lachumierre) and Vanvel Fast Food Truck (Golflinks).
Both are distinct from each other, in terms of their location and the food items that they provide. While B.J. Bakery sells only bakery items like cakes, sandwiches, cookies, and burgers, Vanvel Fast Food is well-known for its Chinese dishes like chow and momo, accompanied by chicken fried rice, chicken drumsticks, hotdogs, and burgers.
Interacting with one of the regular customers, a postgraduate student of NEHU, about Vanvel Fast Food, gave an idea about its growing popularity. He said, “I come here regularly because the quantity of food is very filling. Plus, the food is delicious and affordable. Had it been a hotel or restaurant, it would be expensive.”
A few other customers, who, like him, refused to be named, shook their heads in unison.
The food truck culture may be a western import, yet it has left a lasting impression on the people, becoming synonymous with street food culture in Shillong. What makes them popular is also their mobility – they can move easily from one place to another. Yet, this doesn’t mean that a food truck is an easy business to handle, as there are a lot of difficulties, which also include high-cost maintenance.
One thing most food truck owners and customers agree to is that the truck should always look good – that attracts foodies first.
In the words of television host and chef Tyler Florence, “Today’s food trucks are far from cheap eats on wheels, there are some seriously gourmet offerings on four wheels.”