By Adity Choudhury
Walk through any busy locality and observe the familiar face of an elderly gentleman sitting near a street-side food joint with a newspaper, the thick-framed glasses sitting on the tip of the nose, as he hangs on every word. Placed strategically near his foot is his faithful companion – a cup or glass of chai, its smoke billowing in the air.
One can also see friends chatting with a conspiratorial grin. Afternoons in most government offices are about drinking chai to ward off sleep.
This beloved beverage begins the everyday pace of life in Shillong, not that different from most cities.
Laitumkhrah-based House of Pearls and Chaiops, the Jail Road-based, Chaiko, and Saha Tandoori Chai in Keating Road are new additions to the city, and a hit with the youth, in particular. The proprietors all agree that there is a boom in chai culture.
Bursting the Bubble
Yoorisa Pde and Sachin Sharma, owners of House of Pearls, worked together to nurture a dream, and offer something new – bubble tea – originally from Taiwan.
Pde studied Public Health in the United Kingdom (UK) and had bubble tea every day. During Covid, she returned home and missed the beverage, leading to her decision to start something new.
“It was either August or September. We were initially keen on opening a bakery. I missed bubble tea so much that I thought of introducing it to my people here,” she said.
Sharma added, “I mean, why not? Times have changed and people, especially the youth, welcome new ideas. No longer do people just sit and eat, they now want to hang out and chill. Some may even want to work in these spaces.”
Initially hesitant, it was working together that helped them battle the uncertainty of the time. Over five months of reading about bubble tea and brainstorming in their research room prepared them to introduce it in Shillong.
“Finding the right people became a space of learning. First, we needed to find good quality pearls and ordered samples that were tested. With time, we also became better at understanding the manufacturing chains in India, which honed our entrepreneurial skills,” Sharma said.
On audience perception, they said, “We were confident. People here are open to South Asian cuisines, especially Korean cuisine. That said, we were nervous as time inched closer and we were all set to open our café.”
The trial-and-error phase revolved around finding the right flavours. Sharma said, “We continue to experiment a lot, broaden our menu, and listen to our customers.”
Initially, they had a limited menu, and there was pressure. The lack of funds, however, didn’t deter them. During the initial days, their stock would end quickly – proof that people lapped it up.
The owners come from different fields, yet it is their mutual love for chai that got them together to start a business.
For Pde, the world is no longer segregated. “Life is a fusion of cultures and ideas. That is true of cuisine, including chai. We no longer live in a world where only our academic training decides which path to carve out.”
Echoing her sentiments, Sharma said, “I studied Philosophy and went on to pursue a photography course in Mumbai. Now, I am an entrepreneur. What really matters is passion. And we’re doing what we’re passionate about.”
On the choice of the location, Don Bosco, Laitumkhrah, both agreed that their crowd is predominantly college-going students. “It’s a central location and we wanted a space where they could hang out for hours, even carry their laptops and work while enjoying their bubble tea.”
Celebrating the Gully
Meet Manjita Dhar, owner of Chaiko, a quaint café in the busy Jail Road market. A filmmaker by training, her unabashed love for the beverage turned her into an entrepreneur.
On the name, she said, “It rhymes with the gully lingo of Mumbai. People there always say, tereko, mereko, hence, Chaiko.”
Before lockdown, she was working in Mumbai. Like most, she came back home. Months of ideating and researching followed, with her family and friends supporting her along the journey.
“Lockdown restricted our movement. Everything was closed. It also meant going back to a time that was. Chai has always strengthened bonds, and it was no different in 2020 -21,” she said, adding how she missed the vibrant chai cultures of Mumbai.
“I was addicted to the tapri culture, in particular,” Dhar said. For the uninitiated, tapri stands for a roadside tea stall and is now an emotion. Cutting chai and kadak chai, to name a few, are usually made here. The love of tea, for Dhar, started then.
Chai and cinema, too, go hand-in-hand. “Working on set also means binging on this beverage, be it while ideating stories or taking breaks in between shoots.”
Soon, Dhar decided to move back to Shillong. But gully chai followed her. As the lockdown eased, she ventured out and realised the existing void in terms of variety. Feeling the need to move beyond the usual chai, she would ideate Chaiko – masala chai is the speciality here.
As she added, “From craving to concept… this is how I would call my baby.”
Starting a business amidst the pandemic was a risky move, yet, the growing popularity of this place has shown that chai lovers are ever curious and will give in to their love of this beverage. Dhar always wanted to start something of her own. Moving back and forth between opening a studio or a café, it was the latter which won.
Coming back to Shillong had its own challenges. “I loved my time in Mumbai, and I had to ponder about the move. One of my fears revolved around acceptance… Would my idea be accepted here; soon, I realised that love for chai unites all… this boosted my confidence.”
Jail Road was an ideal choice for her. As a resident of this locality, she also wanted to start her journey here.
Dhar shared how she was never into academics and was rather interested in the arts. “When I was in school, I used to sell photographs. Back then, we were into pop stars. My classmates and friends would ask me to get their pictures and place their orders. Looking back, this was my first business venture.”
Here to stay
Marqueen Mary Sunn of Chaiops clarified that the beverage ‘of the people’ is here to stay. An engineering graduate, this businesswoman is an unapologetic chai lover.
“The love story with chai is a recent development. Most people drink it at any time of the day. From my observation, they prefer chai over coffee. Its popularity has only grown. Look around and there are entrepreneurs who are experimenting.”
Different kinds of chai are served here – Kadak chai, iced tea and Bombay cutting chai, among others.
On the challenges to cater to a specific beverage, Sunn said, “Our venture to open this café was not smooth. Yes, we were worried, but our success shows that chai finds a space in every heart.”
Along with chai, several food items are also a hit with the people of the city – garlic bread and pizza, to name a few.
Nestled inside Keating Road, near Lady Keane College, is Saha Tandoori Chai.
Shillong-born, Sunny Saha, owns this space and offers the popular tandoori chai. Just four years old, this space is a hit, especially with the students of the college.
Small stools with rounded seats adorn the space, while the chai is made; Maggi and ramen packets are neatly stacked inside.
On the choice of chai, he echoed Dhar’s sentiments. “My journey started in Mumbai. While working there, I came across tandoori chai.”
As amused as he was with the concept, ultimately, it would lead to a new and fresh start. “Business always interested me. Once home, I wanted to do something different. Realising that most people had little to zero ideas about tandoori chai, this became my space of exploration. I thought to myself… why not start it here! Plus, it’s perfect for the cold climate of Shillong.”
This variety in chai has certainly ushered in a transformation. Long gone are the times when friends would indulge in friendly one-upmanship on which one – tea or coffee – is the better beverage. In Saha’s words, “Chai cultures across the globe are about experimenting; improvisation only adds to the experience of savouring your chai time, be it at the home, office, street corners or cafes.”