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Saturday, May 18, 2024

The Signature Remains

Shillong’s love for fashion is no secret. Ahead of World Fashion Day, celebrated each year on August 21, Aparmita Das explores the resurgence of 90s fashion trends. Taylor Swift’s lyrics underscore the popularity of this time, evolving along the way to capture the essence of generational shifts.

By Aparmita Das

But I come back stronger than a 90s trend

There’s a certain magic in these words that Taylor Swift wove in Willow, which stretches back to the 90s being more than just a calendar page… a gentle whisper from the past, an era when self-expression was not just an Instagram hashtag but a way of life, bold and unapologetic.

It was a time when the world was painted in colours of neon and grunge, with music being a symphony of cassettes and mixtapes, and fashion was a canvas where we splashed our personalities with the wildest strokes.

Remember those flannel shirts, baggy jeans (now called boyfriend/mom jeans), chokers, and platform sneakers? Well, they have stealthily crept back into our lives, asserting their relevance with an undying flair.

Just as Taylor’s words remind us of strength that weathers the test of time, so do trends from the 90s. They have this uncanny ability to resurface as vibrant reminders that demand attention. The very essence of this time has been bottled; with each fashion choice, we uncork nostalgia’s fragrance.

Setting forth on a voyage through corridors of time, Daniel Syiem, a visionary in the realm of fashion, revealed, “90s fashion was like a balanced mix. Unlike wild styles of 60s, 70s, and 80s, the 90s took a bit from each and created a more sensible and classier look.”

“Women rocked tailored skirts and pantsuits, showing both power and grace,” he explained adding, “Slip dresses were cool, giving off a relaxed elegance. And who can forget those hot shorts and miniskirts in shiny fabrics?”

He recalled the popularity of animal prints and vibrant colours… all before eco-friendly fashion was even a thing. As a fashion designer, Syiem isn’t stuck in the past, but there’s something about the 90s that speaks to him. “I’m drawn to edgy styles of grunge and hip-hop,” he shared, clearly excited.

But what was so special about the fashion then? In his own words, “It was all about freedom. Grunge, hip-hop, and the internet shaped trends. People felt free to experiment.”

For him, 90s fashion continues to evolve while remaining true to its core. Just like a classic song with a modern twist. “It’ll keep evolving. There’ll always be folks who proudly embrace its legacy. The spirit of the 90s will stay alive in fashion, no doubt about it.”

Likewise, Gracyl Ropmay’s journey encapsulates the spirit of 90s in her artistic pursuits. She shared how icons like Beyonce, Shakira, and Gwen Stefani, among others, shaped her. “Back then, it was jeans and tees for me,” she recalled, chuckling, “We shopped at Glory’s Plaza, Police Bazaar – fashion was limited.”

Starting as pop artiste, she performed to Shakira’s songs in 2002. Ropmay reflected, “I dressed and danced like her, even wore the belly dance belt.”

Evolving, she embraced elements from Christina Aguilera and Britney Spears, donning bell bottoms, baggy jeans, cargo pants, heels, newsboy caps, quarter jeans, shrugs, short skirts, and ankle boots. Adopting fusion, she blended Western designs with tradition, reflecting her roots.

In a parallel exploration of 90s spirit, Banrilang Lyngdoh fondly reminisced, “Snug-fitting pants were the rage – jeans and formal wear alike. School days meant DIY experiments, hand-stitching, and customising uniforms with safety pins and threads that gave a rebellious touch.”

“My father, noting the revival of old trends once said, ‘It’s funny how the fashion I rocked in my youth is back,’” he said, laughing.

Lyngdoh, now a male model, reflected, “Initially, baggy style of the 90s wasn’t my thing. But lately, I’ve embraced its ease and inclusivity. Baggy attire suits all body types; alterations aren’t a must.”

Regarding its resurgence, he pointed out how social media fuels the revival, with Instagram and Pinterest inspiring unique combinations – trends come full circle, making room for new ones.

Ladiangti Rani, a millennial fashionista, remarked on how fashion of that era appeared more rooted in tradition, and went on to discuss mutual influence between different generations. According to her, individuals from the 90s are now tapping into their creative sides, putting together outfits that not only follow trends but also reflect their personalities boldly. “Conversely, Gen Z cohort fearlessly resurrects and reimagines past trends, crafting them to suit their personal preferences.”

Expressing her belief, she emphasised, “Our trend isn’t outdated; rather, it’s been given a fresh perspective. Whether it’s baggy cargo jeans or midi dresses, they seamlessly blend into our modern fashion landscape. What I observed in the past, I’m witnessing once again.”

Rani’s perspective on intergenerational influence in fashion finds resonance in Madhubanti Chanda’s nostalgic recollections; both recognise enduring dynamism of trends across eras.

A PhD scholar, Chanda wears her 90s generation tag with pride.

She highlighted, “In our youth, we strived to emulate the magnetic appeal of on-screen icons. I vividly remember the Nirma Rose ad – three vivacious women enveloped by flowers and admirers. Pepsi, Liril ads, Dilbar, and Kuch Kuch Hota Hai’s trendy Tina also left mark. They radiated boldness, style, and a unique assertion, capturing the ‘arrival’ of changing India during 90s liberalisation, and introducing enigmatic ‘cool’ factor.”

“Bindis atop jeans, mini-skirts symbolising global entry, and love songs embodied in a saree – all encapsulated India’s evolution. My treasured trend: Urmila’s cascading hair with jeans and midriff-baring top. Of course, some trends now seem cringe-worthy! Today, donning a 90s look symbolises both daring and innocence. It reclaims delayed desires in a world that rushed maturity. Amid haste, the 90s look becomes statement of my own timeline.”

This sentiment also resonates with Khamjan Chyrmang, a medical professional, model, and vintage car enthusiast, who finds refuge in revival of 90s fashion, symbolising ethos of embracing challenges with solutions, just like the era’s distinctive approach.

Chyrmang said, “Back then, convenience took a back seat; challenges were met with solutions, not replacements. This ethos stands in stark contrast to today’s world where people replace everything so easily. The resurgence of 90s fashion symbolises this approach, mirroring the lifestyle I embrace…one that’s intricately tied to vintage rides and leather jackets.”

Fairycia Mylliemngap, a budding fashion designer who complements her style with a traditional Khasi “paila”, stated, “I juggle two roles – entrepreneur and fashion trainer – running my own garment manufacturing and training centre.”

“Revived 90s trends, including corsets, crop tops, flared jeans, velvet attire, lapel collared suits, classic laced combat boots, loop earrings, fanny packs, bucket hats, long slit dresses, and more, resonate with everyone and are effortlessly embraced by all,” she added.

Her training covers styles, fabrics, and cuts, ensuring her trainees excel “in the ever-evolving fashion landscape.”

Samuel Ralte, a versatile artiste and cutting-edge fashion icon, recollected how 90s fashion trends and music scene fuel his dual creative roles. “90s was a game-changer in fashion and music. As a 90s kid, I still jam to Whitney, Celine, and George Michael.”

Speaking of style, he remarked, “Denim on denim, tucked, paired with Chelsea boots (if we can call them that back then), topped with leather jacket or trench coat…it’s a look that defies time.”

Discussing the impact of the Korean pop culture wave on Northeastern fashion, particularly 90s influences, Ralte said, “Korean fashion and pop culture have significantly influenced my style, bringing a breath of fresh air.”

He cited examples, noting, “Outfits from shows like Full House, bands like Shinee, Girls’ Generation to BTS and BLACKPINK offer timeless pieces.”

Ralte acknowledged the global reach of Korean wave, emphasising 90s fashion’s universality. “I don’t see much difference between Western and Korean fashion…washed-out jeans, cropped tops, ankle or thigh-high boots, bob haircuts, and oversized blazers.”

He admires how Northeast embraced these styles, using heavy accessories and pairing oversized blazers creatively. While acknowledging resource limitations, Ralte mused, “Northeast lacks the industry to fully support its creativity.”

He praised local talents in modelling, style, and design, noting their efforts in reshaping fashion. He saw progress despite challenges, stating the region is “undeniably moving in the right direction.”

Those who either experienced the vibrant era firsthand or embraced its essence, believe the 90s fashion renaissance continues to thrive even today, blending its free-spirited innovation with timeless styles…bridging past and present.

And as we draw the curtains on this reflection, what better encore than these lines by Taylor Swift,

And when we go crashing down, we come back every time,

‘Cause we never go out of style, we never go out of style.

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