By Eleanor A. Sangma
Peru am.pak kika is a Garo idiom revolving around a procrastinating fox. The old story goes – a fox, after enduring harsh winter nights, told himself to make an am.pak, which would keep him warm. Each night he would make the same promise to himself, yet each morning when he could feel the warmth of the sun on his skin, he would forget about his work.
They say this is the reason foxes have a hard time in winter.
Am.pak refers to the bark of a tree, which has been used by the A.chik tribe as a blanket or mattress till recent times. Several layers of tree bark, each having been pounded to thin sheets, make up an am.pak. These were mostly used in cold winters, to keep themselves warm. A.chik forefathers used what was easily available in nature and created an article to protect themselves against the seasons.
The story of the fox is a cautionary tale against procrastination, yet the details are evocative of how am.pak is being forgotten because people no longer feel the need for the same.
Production of am.pak has dwindled in recent years. There are people who possess the knowledge of this craft, yet many question, “why would we still use these when there are perfectly made blankets and mattresses available in the market?”
In recent years, there have been several people who have stepped forward to preserve the traditional knowledge of the A.chik tribe. Artisan and designer Daisy G Momin is at the forefront of the fight. Besides the preservation of the traditional motifs, accessories, and practices, she has been exploring the forgotten craft of am.pak with major pieces of her latest collection having been made from tree bark.
“I had collected several am.paks in the early 2000s… even back then, it was difficult to get them. So, I recently disassembled the layers in an attempt to see if it could be used again, in another form.”
This is how her latest collection, with colours reminiscent of raw nature, came into existence. Momin described her designs as simple, non-conventional and minimal, almost a tribute to the simplicity of nature herself.
Her recent creations include sarong, bustier and organic accessories.
“I wanted to keep the natural look of the bark, instead of trying to make it look perfect. I knew stitching would ruin it, so I mostly kept it as it is.”
By unravelling the past, she has shaped a present out of it. The designer has also been encouraging other artisans to make am.pak. “We can’t even find this in our museums,” she lamented.
Daisy highlighted how A.chik ancestors had natural and scientific knowledge, which was more advanced than the knowledge we currently possess. “They knew which trees to use and how to use them. They were very specific about the ones they chose for such purposes. They did not use big trees, or tree trunks, as that would be harmful to the natural order. They made use of branches for am.pak, as even a small portion could be stretched to make something as big as a blanket. Our ancestors, through their experiences and experiments, acquired such precious knowledge and passed it on to us. They might have been more knowledgeable than the scientists in laboratories as they’re the ones with practical know-how.”
Some stories say that they would enter the forest and peacefully make their intentions known to the Pattigipa Ra.rongipa (The Great Giver); they would use the trees for their needs with no harm meant to nature. They would never randomly pick and cut any tree they liked.
After procuring the bark, they would pound it with a special tool called pa.nel, and either make a fine material or keep it rough and raw. Several of these sheets are then bound together with threads made from ramie to create an am.pak.
Since the year 1994, when her niece had walked the runway in Momin’s handmade mini macrame dress and won the fashion show organised by the Ladies’ Club, the designer has chosen to use eco-friendly materials and designs inspired by nature and culture. Her signature motifs include the pong (dried gourd), which she uses in varying ways, from terracotta accessories to home décor.
On her entry into the world of designing, she stated that it was completely accidental, as she did not have any intention of pursuing the same. She never plans for her collections, but the ideas come naturally once she has the raw materials in her hand. Even the idea of making clothes out of am.pak was not intentional. She had been pounding gimbil (wild fig) to extract dye for her clothes, and it had come out as a fine material that looked like cloth. This gave her the idea of reinventing the am.pak.
Almost three decades since she first started out, the designer still seems to have the Midas touch.
“A.chik ancestors were self-sufficient. They did not depend on anyone else to fulfil their needs and used resources that were abundantly available in their surroundings. It is astounding just how innovative they could get with the natural resources. Even other tribes that I’ve met become surprised when they hear about such creative skills our ancestors possessed.”
Momin’s designs are a homage to her ancestry; a way of preserving tribal arts and crafts along with the bond, A.chik tribe has always had with nature.
This is what the artisan is attempting to do – sheltering history from certain death by holding on to its memories.